When you export, DieVinci can optionally add support fins (the Add support fins toggle in the export dialog): the die is exported oriented corner-down with removable fins already attached, so getting a clean print is mostly about not over-supporting. You can also just export the plain STL and orient, support, and post-process it however you see fit - the fins are a convenience, not a requirement. This guide covers the fin workflow; it leans toward resin / SLA, which is what the fins are designed for, but the general advice holds anywhere.
Why fins?
A die lives or dies by its faces: they need to be flat, crisp, and unmarked so the numbers read cleanly and the edges stay sharp. Any support that touches a face leaves a small scar where it is removed - and on a die, a scar on a face is a ruined face.
The fins solve this by keeping support contact off the face surfaces and confining it to the edges:
The die is oriented point-down, so it grows from a single vertex. Each printed layer adds only a little area over the one below, which keeps peel and suction forces low and means the model itself barely needs supporting.
The fins run along the edges and the down-facing tip, not across the faces. They do meet the very edge, so each fin touches a thin sliver of the two faces that share it (how much is set by the inset width) - truly edge-only contact is not possible, since an infinitely thin edge cannot actually hold the part. But that contact is small and sits right on an edge, which gets a polish pass anyway, rather than marking the middle of a face.
Because the fins are part of the exported model (with a thin, deliberately weak interface where they meet the die), you get predictable, repeatable support contact instead of a slicer scattering support tips across your faces.
Crisper geometry: building point-down forms each corner and edge cleanly from the tip upward, so the vertices and face angles stay sharp - rather than being rounded off by a support tip or by resting a face flat on the build plate.
Conventional auto-generated supports do exactly the thing you do not want: they plant tips on the broad down-facing faces and overhangs - the most visible surfaces of the die.
In your slicer (with fins)
Import the finned STL as-is and do not re-orient it - it is already positioned corner-down for you. (Exported without fins, orient and support it as you would any model.)
Do not auto-generate a full support structure on the model. The fins are the support.
Enable island / auto-support detection (most slicers do this by default). This only needs to catch small isolated islands the fins do not already reach - for example the underside of a deep number cut.
Review what the slicer placed and trim it. Delete any support tips that landed on a die face, and thin out dense clusters - a genuine island usually needs just a point or two. Less is more: every support you keep is a potential mark.
Add a raft for solid bed adhesion. The down-facing fin tips have a small footprint, so a raft helps them stick and survive the peel.
Otherwise, normal resin best practices apply: exposure dialed in for your resin, anti-aliasing on, a sensible lift speed, and decent wash and cure.
After printing
Wash it and remove the fins at the thin interface (the wash-and-cure order matters for keeping the die flat - see Washing and curing below). Because the contact sits right on an edge, take the fins off carefully so you do not chip the corner:
Cut, do not pry. Lay flush cutters flat against a face, parallel to it, and trim the fin along the surface rather than pulling it outward.
Mind the timing. Fully cured resin shears cleaner than green resin - but curing with the supports still attached can warp the die. For dice, removing them first and sanding the nibs usually beats a crisp cut on a warped face (see Washing and curing).
Leave a hair of fin proud of the surface and sand it back, instead of cutting flush in one go.
A light sanding and polish along the edges then clears the small witness marks and crisps the corners.
If chipping is a worry, the export dialog has an Edge offset setting: at 0 the fin straddles the edge (crispest corner); raise it and the contact moves just below the edge onto one face, so it cuts and sands away without ever touching the corner - trading a hair of edge sharpness for chip-free removal. This follows the same dice-support research linked below (supporting near, but not directly on, the corner).
Washing and curing
Most dice warping and skew comes from this step, not the print itself. Resin shrinks as it cures, and the more UV you pour in the more it shrinks - so over-curing a small, solid die is what bows rafts and twists faces. A few habits keep them straight:
Drain off the excess first. Tilt the plate (or the part) corner-down over the vat for a few minutes to reclaim resin and keep your wash cleaner - but do it out of direct light, since ambient UV skins the surface over and makes it tackier to clean. Cupped areas and the engraved recesses will not fully drain, so they still need the wash.
Wash briefly. A couple of minutes is plenty; agitate so it clears the engraved recesses (a soft brush on the numbers helps), then dry completely - curing over leftover wash leaves a tacky, hazy surface. Resist soaking: the part slowly absorbs the wash liquid, and a long soak swells and softens it, erodes fine detail and sharp edges, clouds clear resins, and leaves it brittle once it dries. Treat it as a rinse, not a soak - if a recess still looks wet, brush and re-dip rather than leaving the whole die in.
Take the supports off before curing. While the die is still green, remove it from the raft and fins, then cure the bare die. Cured with the supports on, the raft and fin lattice shrink and pull the die out of true - the single biggest cause of skew. (The trade-off: cutting green resin can chip a little more, but a flat die plus a quick sand of the nibs beats a crisp nib on a warped one.)
Cure short, then stop. A solid die needs far less than people expect - a couple of minutes per side, not fifteen. Over-curing yellows, embrittles, and warps. Calibrate once: cure a throwaway die in ~1-minute steps until it is just hard and non-tacky, note the time, and do not exceed it.
Cure under water. Drop the bare die into a clear glass or plastic container of (distilled) water and cure it submerged. Water blocks oxygen for a more even, complete cure and holds the temperature - and the shrinkage stress - down, so it warps far less. Knock any air bubbles off the part first, and dry it afterward.
Water-washable vs. regular resin. What you wash in depends on the resin: standard resins wash in IPA (or a dedicated cleaning solvent), while water-washable resins rinse in plain water - more convenient and no flammable solvent, but they tend to be more brittle and are especially prone to swelling and cracking if left to soak, so the keep-it-brief rule matters even more. Either way the used wash liquid is full of uncured resin: cure it off (sun or UV until it solidifies) and bin the solids - never pour it down the drain, water included.
Edge vs. cone contact
The Interface setting chooses how a fin touches the die: a continuous Edge (a knife edge running the whole length) or a row of Cones (separate point contacts). The edge holds the strongest because it bonds along the entire length; cones leave less and cleaner witness marks, but a row of small points grips far less in total - and is less rigid, so the die can rock a little under the peel and print slightly skewed. The edge is stiffer and the most reliable for an accurate print; reach for cones when clean witness marks matter more than holding power.
With cones, the Cone contact setting is the lever that matters: it sets the diameter where each cone meets the die. If a print detaches partway up, raise it (the contacts are too weak to hold the part as it grows); lower it for cleaner, easier removal once you know it holds. On a corner-down die the fins only support the bottom third, so the contacts have to anchor the whole overhang above - small point contacts are the first thing to give. A raft and slightly larger cone contact (or the edge interface) are the usual fixes if cones let go.
Where this comes from
DieVinci's corner-down fin approach follows the established method for resin-printing dice - popularised by Rybonator and refined by the dice-making community: keep every face off the build plate, support along the edges (where any witness mark is easy to polish out), and keep the engraving deep enough that sanding never reaches the numbers. The consensus is consistent: supporting all faces uniformly beats resting any single face on the plate. If you want to read more: